Aviation Design SU-27/35 Detail Parts Installation Manuals

90 oz. Belly Tank Installation:

The belly tank is designed to be installed using the 2 molded removable brackets provided with the system. It will be necessary to pre-install a flat plate carbon fiber spine (approximately 1" by 12" long within the fuse to spread the extra weight of the tank when filled with fuel. See the photo below for the approximate location for the mounting of the brackets and location of the spine. Rough sand the inside of the fuse and attach the spine to the inside of the fuse using Aeropoxy/Hysol. Allow the glue to cure before proceeding to the next step.

Rough sand the fuse and attach the fuse base brackets using Aeropoxy/Hysol. Allow the glue to cure fully before proceeding.

Using a pair of 6-32 bolts (see photo) drill, countersink and install the two bolts (1 in each bracket) to fasten the brackets thru the fuse and mechanically secure the brackets thru the carbon fiber plate within the fuse using a 6-32 flat nut for each bracket. Be sure to use loctite on the bolt threads to prevent the nuts from backing off.

Rough sand the tank in the two locations where the tank brackets are to be installed. slide the tank brackets into the fuse base brackets and lock them in place using the 2) 3/32 pins provided with the system. rough sand the exposed bottom surface of each bracket and apply Hysol to the entire bottom surface of the brackets. Carefully position the outer scale tank in place onto the brackets and secure the tank with tape so it cannot move. Be sure the tank in perfectly aligned with the centerline of the fuse as this will be the last chance to do so before the glue becomes permanent.

After the tank glue has cured, remove the 2) 3/32 pins and the tank. Drill two small holes thru the bottom of the tank directly opposite the tank brackets. Attach 2 small 1" by 2" carbon fiber plates to the inside of the tank surface under each bracket using Hysol. Allow the glue to cure fully before proceeding.

As with the fuse brackets, drill 2 small holes using a #43 drill bit thru each of the tank brackets on each side of the fixing pins. Using a 4-40 tap, tap the tank bracket's 2 holes. Working thru the small holes in the bottom of the tank, carefully drill the carbon fiber plates using a #34 drill bit to make bolt clearance holes. Be sure to only drill thru the plate and NOT the bracket. Once these holes are completed, install the 4) 4-40 X 1/2 machine bolts thru the carbon fiber plates and into the tank brackets.

Plumb the inner Kevlar tank cap using the hardware provided with the system. Since this is a twin install, there will be two pick-ups inside the tank. Be sure the clunks used only come within 3/4" of the rear of the tank. This will prevent the fuel line "stretch" from bringing the clunks into contact with the rear of the tank, closing off the clunk's pick ups. Once the cap has been plumbed, carefully drill a 5/16 hole thru the top most edge of the tank cap to act as a vent. Rough sand the inside and outside of the tank where the 1/4" nipple fitting protrudes thru the tank cap wall. Be sure to leave just enough space when installing the 1/4" nipple for the cap to clear the main tank flange for final gluing assembly of the cap to the flange. Hysol the 1/4" nipple in place. allow the Hysol to cure before continuing.

Rough sand the main fuel tank flange and the inner rim of the tank cap, wipe with a degreasing solvent, let dry. Apply a generous amount of Hysol to the inner cap rim and top the main tank flange. Assemble the cap and tank together. Wipe off any excess Hysol from the outside of the tank and allow the setup to cure completely.

The scale outer tank nose cone can be attached using silicone after the entire tank has been painted and finished. Normally, the inner tank should not require any maintenance, but if the cone needs to be removed, use a putty knife (NOT SHARP) to cut around the edge of the cone and it can be removed.

Photos of tank mounted, fuel lines etc..

Notice the front bracket's front edge lines up with the tank's center seam.

 Fuel tank installation looking forward.

Functional Scale Refueling Probe Installation:

First remove the actual refueling doors in on the fuse along the outlines as shown in the photo below.

Only remove the area defined by the actual door shown.

Install the door well/liner to the inside of the fuse using Hysol where shown in the next photo. Allow the Hysol to cure fully before proceeding.

Be sure the well fits as shown in the photo below before the Hysol cures.

Once the Hyson on the well has cured, attach the probe extender unit as shown here. You can install it so that it's removable or permanent as shown here. The extender is designed to attach to the opposite wall of the fuse. The fuel line shown here was installed in a customer's jet due to the fillers being in the nose. Normally, the tube faces aft.

The servo mount is pre-installed onto the extender unit and is for a mid case sized servo. The arm provided is for JR splined servos. The slot in the arm is designed to allow the probe to extend without binding.

The probe can also be extended manually if you wish.

Notice the inner well fits perfectly within the door opening space.

Once the extender has been installed, Hysol the door as shown here and in the photo below. The door mounts to the "L" molded fitting.

Glue the door in place when the probe is in the fully closed position as shown left.

Probe shown in filly extended position below.

***NOTE***

If you are going to use the probe as an aircraft fueling point, you must apply thread sealer between the Festo fitting and the molded elbow fitting before doing so. The scale refueling tip is designed to snap in and out of the Festo fitting. Should you lose it, a replacement is available.

Drag Chute Installation:

The Su-27/35 drag chute is installed into the rear removable tailcone section of the fuselage. The chute system is designed to use compressed air and a piston ram to eject the chute. A special servo holder allows the chute cone door to first be opened and then the push button valve to be pressed thus ejecting the chute on landing. We have an "Autochute" system available that allows complete control of the chute function without sacrificing any receiver channels.

Before installing the chute tube, you will need to make and install 2) 1/8 ply bulkheads. Each bulkhead location is shown in the photo below.

This is the rear bulkhead. Notice the #4 flat washer just to the left of the lower release mechanism slot. You must make 2 rear bulkheads. The inner one is mounted permanently to the rear cone section and the second one is glued to the chute tube and fastened to the inner bulkhead using the 4 screws shown.

The rear bulkhead installs inside the rear section approximately 4-5" forward of the rear chute door opening. This bulkhead is permanently installed within the rear section. The center hole should be a loose fit to the chute tube. The actual eject piston fits in the position shown, but disregard the location of the servo mount as it no longer installs where shown.

Install the chute door hinges as shown in the next set of photos. The door installs using an offset hinge unit. The base hinge holder mounts to the inner lip of the top rear section piece.

Make all the slots shown in the photo to allow both the hinges to be fitted and door pull cable to extend forward to the door/eject servo mount in the front of the rear section. The hinges are tapered to fit the door cone as shown to left. Hysol all the parts in place once satisfied with the fit. Be sure to make nice glue fillets when gluing the hinges to the door cone. Attach the door pull block where shown here.

The magnet supplied is to attach to the inner surface of the door cone directly opposite the #4 washer shown in the photo above.

Door in open position.

Fin/Gun Port Detail Parts Photos

Molded fin part locations shown here.

Finished fin "spear"/ antenna arrays on fin.

Finished gun barrel install